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@@johngute5825 these do not have a big dollar value attached to them to start with so you’re not really gonna hurt it much by bringing it back with new skin. This is not real leather of course, closest thing we have today is vinyl, and you can find it at Hobby lobby in large sheets, more than enough to cover one of these. I happen to notice an entire Rack of similar material the last time I was through Hobby lobby about three months ago. you can buy one of those kits to replate nickel parts on Amazon. Most US makers at the time called that fabric material leatherette, while the British called it Rexine.

@@harrycallahan8573 I am happy to hear that the videos are useful, hopefully you will have the machine up and playing in no time.

@@izekhibbard9409 if it is in good shape and at least intact then yes you should buy it. If it has a broken spring or somethings wrong with the reproducer, you can fix that later. These are not the easiest machines to find and they are often expensive. It’s not just phonograph collectors that are after this model, but you will also have to contend with the military collectors who want them because of their connection with World War II and Korea. If it’s like mine and somebody’s painted it some other color than OD green you can always paint it yourself later. That’s a very easy color to come by and applying it as simply a brush or a spray can nothing fancy and you can make some stencils to put on there if needed. If there was one near me for 200 bucks, I would definitely be all over that

@@susank.4945 I don’t know as I did not weigh one, but I would think it’s at least close to 100 pounds. The Victrola nine tabletop machine that is pretty much the same size as the upper part of the 11 floor machine weighs 47 pounds. All that wood in the lower cabinet probably weighs another 40 or 45 pounds. Plus I believe the cast-iron horn in the 11 is a bit larger than what is found in the table top model and that would add some pounds as well.

@@jenminto1 I don’t recall ever paying all that much for them, but that was years ago. The major factor determining how much it’s going to be worth is how much work you have put in it. If the motor has not been serviced sometime in the last 25 years then it’s going to have to be done. The spring needs to be repacked with fresh grease and everything cleaned up. The Swiss used a pretty good grease, but it tends to thicken up by this time at least in every Swiss motor I’ve ever opened and this is quite a few. The springs in these things are not very large so use a thin grease like white lithium or something like that. If you don’t do the service, whoever buys this machine if they have to pay somebody to do it is looking at a couple of hundred dollars minimum and that affects the price you can sell it for. The reproducer probably doesn’t need work as all the Swiss ones from this era seem to have some sort of tar paper like gasket that does not deteriorate like rubber does. If the service has been done in the machine is playing well I would think $150-$250 might not be out of the question. I would not price these in the same range as the HMV portables, the one closest to this year would be the HMV102 and in this country those machines can be a little expensive because they’re hard to find. The Swiss machines on the other hand were marketed in this country and sold here in good numbers so there’s enough of them around. The HMV machines you have to rely on somebody carrying it into the country as they did not market their machines here. After 1932 the Swiss stepped into the vacuum left when RCA stopped producing upscale portable machines at the Victor factory. You will see some very interesting models. The Swiss introduced over here, including one with a chrome plated metal motor board. The very epitome of art deco design. These chrome machines tend to bring quite a bit of money while the more plane models like the 302 do slip under the radar bit. I’m pretty sure I paid less than $50 for the one I have, but then I had to put a full service into it which means a lot of time and having the skills to do it. I would suggest monitoring eBay to see if anything similar has sold or is being offered for sale as this will give you a closer idea to the real market value in 2025.

@@Denny_E_Lee7575 no problem at all, I hope it assists you in changing your springs

@@ThePhonographStop the Electrola 101 was made in the same factory as the HMV101, only the markings were different. Later on Electrola would manufacture their own machines such as the 106 I’ve been playing with recently, and the 102 among others. It’s not that easy to find Electrola 101’s in the US, I have a couple of them, while at the same time I have six or seven regular HMV English marked ones. The regular English marked 101’s I’m not all that common over here either because HMV never marketed their machines in the United States. The ones here were all brought in mostly by hand by tourists or servicemen returning from overseas many years ago.

@@xXBURITOOXx thank you I hope you had a great Christmas and have a happy new year.

@@orbispictus6127 the double break was more of function of the older machines because the earlier 78 did not have the eccentric groove in the middle that would trigger an auto break so for these you need to be able to shut the auto brake off at to simply use the manual brake. I’m assuming we’re talking about a 102? Could also be that the manual break was removed for some reason. you would be able to tell this by the presence of two small holes on the motor board where the brake should be. Auto brakes can be a pain in the neck. Which you’re probably going to have to do is very carefully take it apart, being super careful of the paper washers that are in place between the metal parts. Rust tends to form here and they can break very easily. Replacing these things can be problematic as you have to experiment with different types of material trying to get the right thickness and consistency of material there to have it work. I am known to be extremely lazy with auto brakes on machines. I’m keeping for myself. Right now I have a German 106 that I haven’t repaired that auto break yet and it’s been six or seven months. I know it doesn’t need much. I just hate screwing around with them. Mostly because of dealing with those delicate paper washers. Do not oil these things as that will also ruin the paper washers. 99% of the time I find with these things that it is rust that is formed between the parts causing the issue. It’s just not triggering because it doesn’t have freedom of movement. Yes I’m pretty sure I remember that on the later 102’s they did not have the extra brake.

@@paulwilson126 that album of Bing records was one of the ones I might’ve mentioned that I had already promised to a friend of mine local here when you picked up your records. He wanted to play them on an English made Gramophone that I fixed for him a couple of years ago. He wanted some Christmas music to play, had pretty much everything in that album kind of sounded like holiday music, even if only two of them were specifically Christmas records. Apparently it was a big hit with his family and friends.

You spin the crank and nothing happens? Yea, spring related, hard to say what it might be without opening up the spring barrel. Under the main spindle shaft is a tiny ball bearing, it can fall out so be careful not to lose it when you lift off the plate. Work with the motor on an old towel to catch loose small parts like that. There is, or should be some washers, or washer on the shaft holding the spring barrel, note their position. You shouldn't have to remove the governor, there are tiny ball bearings under each end of that shaft as well. A new, or old for that matter spring should not slip off the barrel. These springs have the bent end in the middle, and pear shaped hold on the outer end. the middle can only snap off, the outer end would only come off on being fully cranked up, otherwise pressure from the spring holds it very firmly in place. It may have snapped on the outer end as if it came loose fully cranked up it would have made an impressive noise. It's also possible that the pin snapped off the barrel. The spring is 1" x 12-15', it is available from US suppliers by using the spring intended for the Victrola VV-IV 1918-1920 that retained the hole on the outer end while going to the bent end in the middle. If you need me to look it over just pull the motor and send it to me, contact me at rockisland1903victrola@gmail.com

​@@Rockisland1903 Thanks for the reply. I am in the UK and that should be really helpful. I'm just about to undo it.

That was a couple of years back, that machine has since found a new home after I got it fixed. I got lucky when a friend stumbled on that parts motor at a flea market just when I needed it. I have no remaining SAAL parts as I rarely deviate from Victor or HMV machines. George Vollema at Great Lakes Antique Phonograph can help you with that motor. He has parts and likely a nice heated work station to repair it. I work mostly outdoors and that just isn't happening in the winter. Google him and the phone number will be on his web page. If you still haven't fixed it by the springtime then I could have a go at it for you, but the shipping is steep given the motors weight.

@@Rockisland1903 thanks for the info and yeah ill google him.

@ no problem, I have done business with George in the past and never had any issues.

@@JohnDought not enough public interest, both in the style of music and the type of record or records at all for that matter. There is some renewed interest in vinyl LPs, but this would also be a small segment of the population and it would contain modern music or at least stuff from the last 40 or so years. I imagine by this point in time, a factory would have to completely retool to make a 78 RPM black shellac record. New machinery, presses everything. The startup costs would be challenging to say the least.

@@JohnDought a toothpick is made from wood, a soft material than anything on the phonograph. It will not hurt the record, or the reproducer. That goes for any of the fiber type needles be a thorn, bamboo, or any other hardwood.

I have tried it, but the toothpick doesnt catch a groove, do i need to make it more to a point? ​@@Rockisland1903

Nice find, the 111 was the top of the line model for 1922-24. This replaced the Victrola 16 and the 120 that was around for just a year or so. They all have a collector following but your not going to get rich selling it. Larger floor models that take up a good chunk of real estate in a room are a harder sell. Being clean helps, being fully serviced with a rebuilt reproducer would help even more. Best way to get a handle on current value is to monitor ebay sales for any of this model that may pop up and see what they bring. My guess from seeing some recent Victrola 16 sales, and even 17 and 18 sales is it's going to be in the 200-400 range. Not being as fancy as the old 18, or it's slightly plainer cousin, the 17 I would think 300. Being in nice shape may add a little bit more, and a full service would help. Problem is if you don't do that work yourself a four spring motor service would run $400+shipping to whatever shop you choose for the job, and these motors are heavy. Reproducer another 50-75.

@Rockisland1903 I guess I didn't do too bad then. I got that victrola plus a 1905 Singer, treadle sewing machine complete, both for $200. The singer is in almost as good condition as the victrola.

@ both of these items are currently undervalued. The singer sewing machines are undervalued because so few people use them anymore or even know how to use them. The only ones that I know of that seem to keep their value are the more ornate older ones, or the featherweight portables that singer made from the 1930s to the 1960s. I see featherweights trading for 350-$450. At the same time I see nice 1940s heavy duty singer sewing machines going for $20 at estate sales in flea markets.

The only adjustment on the 50's motor governor is end play on the outer bearing shell. the inner bearing shell by the brass gear has a groove for the screw to lock into place, there is no adjustment there. the outer one closest to the friction leather and brass disc is adjustable. You leave just a bit of end play so the shaft can move in and out very slightly. Think end play the thickness of an index card. It's 22 degrees in my little workshop just now, it may be awhile before I do another motor video.

@@andrewbuchholz7080 I have played with these motors from time to time they aren’t all that much different from any motor of that era. They don’t use as much brass as some of the Columbia as I have messed with, and I did not find the springs as thick as the ones the Edison or at least the one that I was playing with. I did redo a Pathe model 50 table top a few years ago. I don’t remember anything being difficult about the motor and as far as I remember, it was a straight up clean it job with no repairs needed. I’m trying to remember if I ended up selling that machine or not, and my mind is a blank at the moment on that one. I think I did sell it, but I still have the top half of another one, Pathé, a floor machine of some sort before it was butchered. It is buried in the barn loft of all the other parts machines at the moment so I don’t know what it has for a motor, but I would imagine it is something with two springs at least.

@@LarryMcAninch that sort of damage with a Victor number four reproducer is pretty common. There’s no real fix for it as I do not know of anybody reproducing parts to fix these reproducers or at least no backs or front rings. The good news is that the Victrola 11 was never intended to use the number four reproducer, so it sounds just fine with a Victor exhibition, or number two reproducer. Both of these can be found on eBay for around $100-$110 completely rebuilt.

I am not currently selling any No4 reproducers. I do have some No2 and Exhibition reproducers rockisland1903victrola@gmail.com

Needles are still with it also

1913 saw major improvements in motor design. This was when the one piece casting came into use for the motors base. Spring barrels now had the clip holding down the lids rather than just being pressed in. Worm screw gears were gone and the governor body was updated. Other small changes as well, and this would remain in production until the improved motors of late 1917. The entire arrangement of the spring barrels and how they were retained was vastly improved saving a great deal of time when changing them out. No more little pins to punch out so the barrels could be removed from the shaft.

This machine was made in the mid 1930's and records of this type would have been played on it pretty much all the time. Thing is they were not concerned with record wear as if it happened you could trot down to the nearest record store and buy a new copy. Today we only have the supply of what is left 80 years later when clean copy's may be hard to come by so we don't want to do anything that might cause wear. The records of this era were designed to primarily be played on electric machines using sapphire tip stylus that would not cause wear like steel needles will over time. Most of the music of the big band jazz era is pretty common and was pressed in the millions of copys, lots of it is still around, but there are some exceptions. Certain records are more sought after like Glenn Millers 1939 In The Mood, the tune that made him the worlds leading band leader of his time and pretty much is the signature song of an entire generation of music. These records would have been played heavily at the time, many would have been played on Victrola type machines as by 1940 the electric machines were not in every home yet. I have maybe 11 copy's of that one record, 9 of them show wear to some extent, and only the two copy's I acquired two weeks ago on the same day are like new and play flawlessly. It only took me 20 years to find these clean copys, just pure chance that I found both on the same day. Obviously I want to play them, but not cause any wear, these will only be played with fiber needles that will not harm the records. Clean copys of this one record can go fifty bucks or more. Ray Nobles Midnight the Stars and You, best known from it's use in the movie the Shining is another example of a record you would never play with a steel needle if you were lucky enough to find a copy, these go for hundreds of dollars when they come up. I once played my clean copy of Paul Whiteman's 1923 pressing of The Charlston when I was demonstrating the Walnut VV-XI several years ago, this was played with a fiber needle due to it's rarity and value, rarity in that it is a very clean copy. The records I played on this 1935 Electrola are all common pressings, some are reissues during the post war period, none have a value beyond five bucks and most if not all could be found for a dollar or less so risk is minimal playing them with a steel needle once or twice.

I have at least 300 more records to go over that showed up here in just the last three weeks, never mind the 1000+ that I had already that need to be checked out. I will be at it for some time yet.

Let me know the next time you are in the area, I am not keeping all of these records. Scott brought up two more milk crates full that I have not even looked at yet.

@@Rockisland1903 Jim, we are making plans for going to NY for 11/18-26. We were up for a few days in August when our granddaughter was born, otherwise have not been up since last spring. I will contact you to see when we can get together and yes we’ll do records and talk lanterns, but I am also looking to catch up with you. Take care….Paul

I will play more, problem with playing many of these records on youtube is they allow the copywrite owners to monetize my videos so then you see advertising. Sometimes the videos also become unplayable in certain countries due to copywrite issues.

Remember to service it, or get it serviced for optimal results when playing it. You can use the mainspring made for the 1918-1919 Victrola the 4th tabletop machine, it has a pear shaped hole on the outer end, and bent end in the center just like HMV, and is 1" x 13-15", fits nicely in the No59 motors used in the 101, and the 102's motor. The Electrola I play in this video shares a motor with the HMV 102 and it is using a new VV-IV 1918 spring acquired from the Phonograph Shop

@@GoofyAhhVicious77 that goes for the improved motor only that was made after the end of 1917. That’s the motor with the single spring barrel for two springs. The earlier motors had smaller spring barrels when that motor was used in the six and they were individual barrels, one spring in each.

@@Rockisland1903 thanks that’s what I thought mine is a 1924 last year of production it’s just like the one in this video hook and crimp main spring.

To eat at Denmos in Southbury Conn after leaving the flea market. Someone wanted to see the fall leaves turning color. Just around the corner we found a tag sale where I bought a huge collection of WW2 era records in very clean condition. Probably more than 300. Already I pulled out quite a bit of Glenn Miller, Benny Goodman, the Dorcy brothers, and so on including my second for this weekend clean copy of In The Mood, and American Patrol.